I did a pretty good job of finishing off my enchilada/taco combination at The Republic of Texas before heading over to The Alamo, just a few blocks away. Famous for the 13-day seige in 1836 when Colonel William B. Travis, James Bowie, Davey Crockett and others held off the army of General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna's Mexican soldiers, The Alamo now offers peaceful grounds for visitors to take a look at this episode of history. I spent much of my time wandering around, attempting to figure out which buildings and walls were original and which were added more recently. Luckily, a small, complimentary brochure was available to clear these questions up. Stone walls and arches surrounding The Alamo have been added since the 1920's. The Sales Museum was built in 1936 and holds historical displays, as well as a gift shop. Rebuilt from original stones, the Long Barracks houses a museum and theatre. Still standing, though with an added roof, is the church and shrine. No pictures are allowed inside this building. Glass display cases hold many items of interest to history buffs, including a rifle belonging to Davey Crockett, whose position during the seige was not far from the church building.
It was interesting to see this glimpse into American history, but I knew I needed to hit the road. I retrieved my car from the parking lot behind La Villita and headed east again on I-10. One Starbuck's and one motel room later, I was soon crossing the Texas/Louisiana border. I stopped for a quick lunch at Cajun Tales seafood restaurant in Welsh, LA. Grabbed a cup of red beans and rice, opting out of other exotic-sounding dishes like crawfish etouffee and broiled stuffed catfish. It was a good choice, nothing fancy but the food hit the spot. Always on the trail of impulsive travel, this must have put me into cajun mode. I pulled out brochures I'd picked up at the welcome center near the state border and browsed some potential options, then headed east again until the sun started to disappear behind me. It was thus that I ended up in Breaux Bridge for the night on the Bayou Teche.
That said, Rocky and Lisa Sonnier, who own and run both the cafe and cabins, are just about the nicest people you'll ever meet. And they love what they do. It shows in the friendly way they greet each customer and in the excellent hospitality they offered me while I was there. No phone lines in the cabins, they hooked up a phone extension on the back porch for me, running it from a phone line in the kitchen. When I accidently turned off the pilot in the gas fireplace - yes, I chose one of the nicer units, after looking at some of the very basic ones - Lisa was there in a flash to relight it.
What? Oh, yeah. I didn't know what that was either, but it turned out boudin is a mixture of boiled pork, liver and rice, stuffed into a casing. Cracklins are crunchy, spicy, fried pork rinds. I admit I was a little afraid to try these local delicacies, but when Lisa presented me with a platter to go (usually served upon arrival for overnight guests) I went ahead and took a few bites. I have to admit it was good. According to one of the locals who stopped by, Rocky and Lisa's boudin and cracklins are the best around. Perhaps this is why Rocky was named "Cracklin King" in a regional contest. The homemade root beer was great, too - non-carbonated. The locals aren't the only ones who love Rocky and Lisa's place. Merle Haggard was on his way in later in the week. Rocky told me he'd been there five times last year and that he'd be fixing him his usual favorite - pinto beans and cornbread. It was an interesting and unusual place :) Not for everyone, as Lisa herself agrees. But for an instant immersion in Cajun culture, I probably couldn't have chosen a better place. I checked out around noon. I had no idea where I was going, but I knew it was time to hit the road again. Additional Alamo pictures:
 Additional Cajun pictures:
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A quick case of culture shock can easily be experienced by starting at The Alamo and landing shortly thereafter in Cajun country. The neighboring states of Texas and Louisiana are as different as night and day. If the switch from Spanish to French doesn't throw you for a loop, the culinary changes will.
In the 1800's, the layout included the area that is now Alamo Plaza, as well as the section of Alamo St. directly in front of the grounds, extending back to the church. Now the property stretches back through gardens to include vending machines and restrooms. A meeting hall and library for the Daughters of the Republic of Texas, who maintain the site, are also here. (Note: The brochure states that the DRT is required by Texas law to preserve The Alamo, a task entrusted to this organization since 1905. Yet no funding is received from local, state or federal government, so the group depends on gift shop sales and donations entirely to keep up the preservation).
Now, I've got to say straight out that Bayou Boudin & Cracklin's Bed and Breakfast Cabins are not for the luxury-minded, in spite of the elegant decor in a couple of their nine cabins. These rustic units do sit on the bayou, narrow as it is at this location, and are not far off the street, which makes for some rumbling traffic noise. They've been brought in one by one from other locations and fixed up to provide down-home lodging behind the popular Bayou Boudin & Cracklin Cafe, which is housed in an 1869 Acadian house. A giant metal crawfish overlooks the property and parking lot. This place is not for the faint of heart ;)
Complimentary breakfast was included here and Rocky was just as cheerful and charming as could be while cooking up a full breakfast of spicy sausage, ham, scrambled eggs and toast, which he served with orange juice and coffee. This morning meal is served in the cafe, a quaint building with wooden picnic tables, crawfish wind chimes and small accordians hanging from the ceiling, cajun music playing, and a wood stove going for heat. Cajun French seemed the first language of choice, mixed with some good old Southern talk. Between breakfast plates Rocky waited on many customers, clearly regulars, who stopped by for homemade boudin and cracklins.