If I were to be asked where, during ten years of cross-country travel, I’d had the very best meal of my entire traveling history, I wouldn’t need to hesitate before answering. I’d explain – and I have, many times – that it was out in the middle of nowhere, at the end of a road bordered by vacant fields, far from any town or city activity and way off the radar of most discriminating diners.

Years from now, I’ll be able to describe the salad of fresh greens, cucumber, tomato, radish and carrots that was nestled under an orange-ginger vinaigrette dressing. I won’t have any trouble remembering the ½ artichoke that was served as an appetizer or the warmth of the freshly baked bread sticks against my fingers. There’ll be no problem reminiscing about the Pine Nut Crusted Halibut that was served with wild rice, asparagus, fresh fruit salsa and a port-butter wine sauce. Nor will I forget that, after wistfully passing on dessert, a petite sorbet with strawberry and flower garnish was softly placed on my table.

But let’s backtrack to my prior research, when I learned only of an historic hot springs spa located south of Livingston, MT and north of Yellowstone National Park. With extremely affordable rooms in the older section of the resort, it was just the type of place I look for on the road. I booked a room and, on a sunny spring day, landed in Pray, Montana.

Chico Hot Springs Resort and Spa came into existence in 1900, when the main lodge was built to accommodate the many travelers who came to the area to soak up the healing mineral spring waters. The three-story Victorian building is the center of most of the onsite activity, with a variety of guest rooms upstairs, a dining room downstairs, a saloon adjacent to one side of the building and the large mineral pool just outside the saloon.

Though newer guest rooms and cabins are scattered around the property, I welcomed the chance to stay on the top floor of the historic main building, which still offers a few original, economy rooms with bath down the hall for an amazingly low fee. Honeymooners, families and upscale vacationers would most likely opt for other accommodations. But for me, traveling alone and on a budget, the cozy rooms were just perfect.

I dragged my overnight bag up two flights of stairs and decided to start right off with the resorts primary attraction – a soak in the large, outdoor pool, which I reached through a hallway inside the lodge. Popular with both overnight guests and locals who attend with day passes, the pool was crowded, but not uncomfortably so. A smaller, shaded pool was also an option, offering slightly hotter mineral water than the main pool.

When hunger strikes, it’s not necessary to wait for the main dining to open. Casual fare is available in the Poolside Grille, located on the far side of the pool area – convenient for enjoying a burger between soaks in the pool. The same menu can be ordered inside the saloon, where guests can also play a game of pool or foosball. If it’s a Friday or Saturday night, guests have the added bonus of live music.

If the mineral pool soaks, saloon activities, casual and fine dining aren’t enough to entertain guests, a day spa is available for tempting massages and The Chico Horse Barn offers trail rides. Yellowstone National Park is not too far away for a day trip, either. Personally, I was headed to the park the following day, so I stayed at Chico and just enjoyed the atmosphere.

Before leaving, I picked up a copy of A Montana Table. I couldn’t resist the chance to take some of Chico Hot Springs’ recipes with me.