I sometimes start off a day’s drive with one destination in mind and end up somewhere else, which is exactly how I found my way to a historic cabin in Colter Bay Village, inside Grand Teton National Park.

My intention had been to stay at a lodge farther south. But, driving north from the town of Jackson, WY, I was sidetracked by a large moose at the side of the road. His large, brown, fuzzy new antlers were just growing in and it was far more intriguing to spend time watching him than to race through the valley in search of lodging.

By the time the moose and I parted ways, time had skipped ahead and I reached my intended lodging to find that the cabin I had called about earlier had been taken. It turned out to be a stoke of luck, as I continued north and found the perfect night’s lodging tucked inside a hillside of pine trees along the east side of scenic Jackson Lake.

Colter Bay Village opened in 1956 shortly after the completion of Jackson Lake Lodge in 1955. By 1957 many of the valley’s original homestead cabins had been moved from various locations around Jackson Hole, making them available to overnight guests. Many came from the Teton Lodges, located in the nearby town of Moran. Others were moved from the Jackson Lake area, where the modern, upscale Jackson Lake Lodge had been built in 1955. Yet others were added slowly, over the years, as ranches fell by the wayside, replaced with park development.

My particular cabin was built in the 1920’s as part of the Circle H Ranch on the Moose-Wilson road and was moved to Colter Bay in 1969. The log walls, vaulted ceiling and simple furnishings spoke of a time when early pioneers were just putting down roots in Jackson Hole. There was also a promise of tranquility with the absence of televisions and phones. It was rustic, spacious and comfortable, with a private bath, good heat and a writing table in a nook across from the beds - one double, one twin. It was just what I needed for the night.

It seems sometimes that all I do after checking into lodging is turn around and head for food. I suppose it’s more likely than not to be the case, since check-in times are often around dinnertime and, additionally, I tend to keep driving until I’m either exhausted or starving or both. I did not have to travel far to find a meal at Colter Bay. The village is truly a complete village, with conveniences around every turn - a general store, a gas station, a Laundromat. The Ranch House Chuckwagon restaurant was another.

The amicable, friendly atmosphere of the restaurant was welcome, knowing I’d have plenty of peace and quiet later on in the cabin. From a corner booth, I listened to tourists exchange information, peruse maps and make plans for the following day. Western music played in the background. Through the restaurant’s windows the green boughs of the surrounding pine trees hovered like a low cloud cover.

I ordered lasagna, which was served to me by a young Czech student, who was working for the summer through an International work program. The meal was delicious, just as warm and soothing as comfort food should be.

Huddled inside the cabin later that evening, I set up my books and laptop comfortably at the small writing table and worked far into the night. I’d overheard in the office that a large grizzly bear had been seen recently in the area. I was definitely keeping my outside adventures contained to daylight hours.

Once morning arrived, I ventured outside again. I took a short hike on the Lakeside Trail, which runs along the edge of Jackson Lake and past an amphitheatre used by park rangers for presentations. Conveniently, the restaurant was between the lake and the cabin, so I felt compelled to take advantage of their breakfast buffet – not included in lodging, but definitely worth the reasonable price.

There were plenty of options for visitors to pack away energy before heading out for all the hiking, rafting, horseback riding and mountain climbing that the area has to offer. I went with a grapefruit half sprinkled with coconut and raisins, a breakfast enchilada, a scoop of fresh blueberries, raspberries and strawberries and a cinnamon crumble/raisin muffin.

One bonus to spending a little extra time around Colter Bay is the chance to visit the Indian Arts Museum, located adjacent to the Colter Bay Visitor Center. The museum showcases the impressive David T. Vernon Collection of Indian artifacts, many donated – or purchased, through the Jackson Hole Preserve - by the Rockefeller family. Summer seasons offer museum tours and craft demonstrations on beadwork, weaving and painting, as well as other forms of traditional and contemporary art. Guest artists come from many tribes to share their skills and knowledge. Authentic Native American crafts are also available for sale.

Colter Bay Village is located twenty to thirty minutes from Yellowstone’s south entrance, give or take variations due to tourist traffic or resident bison blocking the road. Though Jackson Hole is so packed with extraordinary opportunities, it’s worth taking a little time to just enjoy Colter Bay Village itself. Not too fancy, not too basic. From my viewpoint, it’s just right.

Colter Bay Village
Grand Teton National Park, WY
(800) 628-9988 Web: www.gtlc.com