Weblog 2004
Headed For the Poor Farm
Fed from melting snow, this 620 foot cascade of water is the second tallest year-round waterfall in the United States. Driving along the historic scenic route just south of I-84, it is impossible to miss. If the sound of the water doesn't pull you over, the crowds of tourists will. I would not want to visit during the summer. In fact, their brochure advises against it, due to congestion and parking problems.
Being the off-season, this was a perfect time to visit. We had pre-planned reservations in the Multnomah Lodge for Sunday Brunch, something I guarantee we didn't need after yet another Columbia Gorge Hotel "World Famous Farm Breakfast." (Keep in mind it was included in the room rate, so how could we pass it up? ;)
Multnomah Lodge is another one of these wonderful solid, stone, mountain structures, though this particular lodge does not offer overnight accommodations. It does, however, have a restaurant with a view of the waterfall. We took advantage of our reservations to have a light lunch and sip coffee while admiring the view.
The lodge was built by the city of Portland in 1925, on land donated by Simon Benson (yes, the same Simon Benson who built Columbia Gorge Hotel.) The Forest Service took over ownership of the Lodge in 1943. It is run today, through a special permit, by the Multnomah Falls Co., Inc.
There are several hiking trails, including a meander to the top of Larch Mountain. An easy (well, at least short) hike of 1/4 mile will take visitors to the Benson Bridge (yeah, good old Benson again ;) Dad opted to rest on a bench below while I hiked up to the middle of the bridge and, I imagine, made a spectacle of myself shouting down at him and waving hello.
We continued west from there, passing the Bonneville Dam. We didn't stop, as we were well past the sign when Dad mentioned it. I do wish now that I had turned back, as I think he was more interested in seeing it than I knew at the time. We stopped briefly at Vista Point, where we found the building to be under renovation and closed, but a circular pathway around it offered great views.
We continued along the scenic route until it dropped us off in Troutdale, which was extremely convenient, as this was where our lodging was for our last night together.
Ever since staying at Kennedy School in Portland a couple years ago, I've been a huge McMenamins' fan. These brothers have done an amazing job restoring historical buildings in the Oregon and Washington areas, turning them into lodging, dining, pub and movie facilities. I'd like to stay at every one of them. Kennedy School was the first of their locations that I visited. This night I would add my second.
It seemed only appropriate to go from Columbia Gorge Hotel to the poor farm, and this is exactly what we did.
During its poor farm days, the estate comprised 330 acres. Now the remaining 38 acres serve as one of the McMenamin brothers' most accomplished business endeavors. Not only is lodging available in every form from $20, hostel accommodations to $200. family suites (limit of 6 occupants,) but a restaurant, movie house, several pubs, a winery, a brewery that produces 10,000 kegs per year, and an 18-hole golf course are all there for guests to enjoy. Add expansive gardens to that and there's a lot to explore.
There are no phones in the rooms, as there are at Kennedy School, but there is a business center available for use (no charge.) The rooms are spacious, decorated artistically with stenciled artwork and eclectic furniture. We had a private bath, though many of the rooms don't, relying on baths located down the hall.
The movie theatre is open to overnight guests at no charge, as well. We found ourselves right in front of it after walking the grounds and taking advantage of some photo opportunities - gardens, artwork, a wonderful red water tower, (Not many photo ops, as the light was fading quickly.) We used our drink coupons and settled in for a showing of Hildago - a fun, unexpected treat.
Both dinner and breakfast were served at The Black Rabbit, the main dining room. It was very good, as was the service. A very noisy gentleman at the table behind us detracted a bit from the meal, but we enjoyed it anyway, though didn't linger.
Already late (movie, dinner, the clock marched on,) we settled into the room where Dad promptly swiped my laptop to play FreeCell and I read until I fell asleep. It was a good last day together. We would have one more treat before I dropped him off at the airport the next afternoon.
The drive west from Hood River, along the Columbia Gorge, is spectacular. Not the least of the natural wonders along that route is Multnomah Falls.
There are many falls in the area and I have to say I enjoyed stops at two of those even more, due to the lack of tourists. (After all, why shouldn't I have these natural wonders to myself ;) Horsetail Falls was a favorite of mine, a 176 foot drop. Latourelle Falls was another one we enjoyed, accessible with a short loop hike that was very easy and incredibly scenic.
Edgefield Manor in Troutdale, just outside of Portland, was indeed the Multnomah County Poor Farm from the time it was built in 1911 until it became, in post-depression years, a nursing home. The goal was self-sufficiency for the poor who lived at the farm, growing food for their own meals, as well as for other institutions in the Portland area.
We had booked a room there on the Hammerhead Package, something they offer at many of their locations. Hammerhead refers to one of their well-known ales and a coupon for two pints of the brew is included in the package, as well as overnight lodging, dinner and breakfast for two guests. Not bad for $109., considering what a room, two dinners, two breakfasts, and two servings of ale would run at most places. And this is a nicer than any ordinary place.







