From Ojo Caliente, I decided to backtrack to Espanola. I'd been through the area too many times in the past without taking my intended route. I knew I wasn't traveling far that day and I had time for a little detour.

The High Road to Taos runs to the northeast side of the straightaway route, passing through the Sangre de Cristo mountains. It is a treasure of a drive, with authentic, non-touristy areas, old adobe buildings, historic churches and some breathtaking scenery. I started off by taking route 76 out of Espanola, heading for the town of Chimayo.

Wisely, I called ahead for a lunch reservation at Rancho de Chimayo, well known for its good food. True to its reputation, a line of people were gathered in the front courtyard, waiting to get in.

Deceiving from the outside, this restaurant has a good amount of space for seating, including both interior rooms and terraced dining on the hillside behind the building itself. I was seated at one of the terrace tables, about three levels up, under the shade of a catalpa tree. The young waiter, John, was helpful with menu recommendations and I ordered Carne Adovada Pequeno, a dish of tender, cooked pork, served with posole and rice. And the bread! Sopapillas - sort of like a pita, but oblong and not cut open - to die for. With a cup of honey, as if the warm, soft, oven-fresh bread wasn't enough.

It was a delicious meal. I can only imagine what their dinner selections would be like. I know people often drive out of their way to dine at this restaurant and now I can see why. If I could have afforded another night's delay, I would have booked a room at their B&B across the street, the Hacienda de Chimayo. But I knew I needed to continue on.

Light rain was starting to fall as I left Chimayo, so I didn't stop at El Santuario. This historic church contains a side room with dirt that many believe to have healing powers, creating nearly two centuries of pilgrimages. But there was no way to know if the rain would become a heavy downpour or not and I knew I had an hour of mountain driving ahead.

I passed through Truchas, where Robert Redford's The Milagro Beanfield Wars was filmed. As I approached the town of Las Trampas, I had the good fortune of a short period without rain. I was able to stop to take photos of the church of San Jose de Gracia, which dates back to 1760, nine years after the community of Las Trampas was established.. This church is considered to be one of the best examples of Spanish mission architecture in the state.

I continued north, climbing into the Carson National Forest, an absolutely gorgeous drive. I attempted to stop at the Sugar Nymphs Bistro, a brightly mural-painted building, converted from a theatre and adjoining building, but I was dissuaded by a "closed" sign in the window. Later I would regret this, as another travel writer at that night's lodging establishment would tell me she believed the business was started by two former nuns. (Note: I have not fact-checked this.) Adds a twist to the background and name of this place, doesn't it? In addition, it is run by the former executive chef from Greens in San Francisco and the food is reputed to be very good. (As if I needed more food after leaving Chimayo...) Anyway, "closed" does not always mean closed if you wander around and peek in windows and talk to people. I'll have to make a point of stopping there another time.

The weather was terribly uncooperative with photographic opportunities - very dark skies and on and off drizzles - but it was a beautiful, interesting drive. I arrived in Taos about 3:30 in the afternoon, with plenty of time to get settled in and do some exploring.