Weblog 2003

Philadelphia, PA

Small towns hold the most appeal for me, but I've been fortunate on this trip to have lodging with family and friends in the Philadelphia area. So I landed just north of The City of Brotherly Love, got settled in, and decided to set out and explore a bit of early United States history. I caught a local Septa train in Jenkintown and found my way to the Old City area, deep in the heart of Philly. The Independence Visitor Center is located at the corner of 6th and Market and offers 50,000 square feet of exhibits, theatres and state-of-the-art computer stations. Concierge help is available and tickets to major city events can be purchased. At a cost of 38 million dollars, this is anything but a small-time booth. The building is impressive and packed with information. An added attraction on the day of my visit was a chance to look at The Magna Carta. Of the original 38 copies of this English document, only 17 are still in existence. I was fortunate to catch the only copy remaining in the United States (owned by Ross Perot and no longer on display, per a notice on the Visitor Center's website). This version - written in Medieval Latin on parchment made from sheepskin and dated 1297 - was the last to be confirmed in England. It was placed on the statute books as the "Law of the Land". I obtained a ticket (no charge, but required and appointed by timed intervals) and headed over to Independence Hall itself, an easy walk across Market St. and along 5th St. Times being as they are, all visitors are required to pass through a security screening before entering the large mall area. Run by the National Park Service, this property houses not only Independance Hall, but also Congress Hall and the Liberty Bell. Architecture and history combined to make this an intriguing visit. The fact that it was free was an added bonus. Fortunately, I visited on a day that wasn't busy, allowing me the luxury of a private visit with the Liberty Bell. A knowledgeable guide (park ranger) provided background information. The famous bell first rang in 1753, in its original location atop the Pennsylvania State House (now known as Independence Hall). It cracked sometime between 1817 and 1846, though exactly when, how and why all remain a mystery. Now housed along Market St., it recently passed a stress test to permit a move to the new Liberty Bell Pavilion along 6th St., currently under construction. My assigned ticket time for the complimentary tour of Independence Hall arrived and, with additional information from another guide, I wandered in the footsteps of Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, Benjamin Frankin and many others of that era. The more I travel, the more I'm convinced that the best history lessons can be had by going to historical sites and letting the images and facts slowly seep in. Thus, I stood quietly in the Assembly Hall and looked around the tables. A pair of wire-rimmed frames rested on the table where Benjamin Franklin once sat. The rising sun engraved in George Washington's chair - yes, the original chair - reigned proudly across the room. The National Park Service has taken great care is preserving this period of history for visitors, exhibiting the true beginnings of our nation. As with most cities and towns on a cross-country tour, there wasn't enough time to see everything. I missed out on Betsy Ross House and Christ Church, as well as other Philly sights, but I wasn't about the pass up one particular cultural opportunity. I headed over to the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Entering the world of Edgar Degas took my breath away. It was well worth the trek up the impressive steps that Rocky climbed (yes, these are the ones) in order to reach the magnificent "Degas and the Dance" collection currently on display. Over 140 paintings, sketchings and sculptures have been brought together to show the inside world of ballet in Paris during the 1800's, all captured with amazing feeling by Degas. Interactive computer terminals allow visitors to "browse" through a sketchbook, page by page (the actual sketchbook displayed in glass in the next room). Beginning with a single pointe shoe, found in his studio after his death, and continuing on through The Dance Class, The Star and Little Dancer Fourteen Years Old, this exhibit was breathtaking, from start to finish. And well worth the $20. admission fee. "Degas and the Dance" continues through May 11, 2003. If you're anywhere near Philadelphia during that time, don't miss it. Photo Gallery: View Here (Note: Photography prohibited inside "Degas and the Dance" - Photos and additional information on Edgar Degas available here) If You Go: Independence Visitor Center Location: 6th and Market Streets Hours: 8:30-5:30 (215) 925-6101 Independence Hall Hours: 9:00-5:00 (Complimentary tickets required, available in the Visitor Center) Note: Required security entrance hours are 8:30-4:45 Philadelphia Museum of Art - Degas and the Dance Exhibition Benjamin Franklin Parkway and 26th St. Philadelphia, PA 19130 (215) 763-8100 Current Special Hours: Tues., Thur. - 10:00-5:00 Wed., Fri., - 10:00-10:00 Sat., Sun. - 10:00-7:00 Closed Monday (Note: Tickets by timed appointments and issued until 90 minutes before museum's closing hour)