It wasn't terribly late when I left Steins, but I was indecisive about what direction to take. Eastbound was a given, but I was contemplating a few zig-zags along the way. I drove sixteen miles to Lordsburg, exited the Interstate and found a Diet Coke and place by the side of the road to look over my map. I'd noticed in my pre-trip research that there were quite a few interesting lodging options in the Silver City area, which was about fifty miles to the north. Numerous natural attractions exist in that part of the state, not the least of which is one I've always wanted to see - the Gila Cliff Dwellings. I knew, should I decide to include those on this trip, that it meant an additional two hour drive out into desolate territory, but it seemed tempting. There wouldn't be enough daylight to go that distance until the next morning, but I decided to drive up as far as Silver City and see if I could combine a new lodging find with this possibility. The drive to Silver City was straight and fast and the city itself just another western town grown a little large for itself. There were some interesting old buildings and I probably should have taken some time to look around, but it was now beginning to get dark and I needed to make a decision and stay put for the night. Either that or head back toward the Interstate and at this point I had my hopes up about seeing the cliff dwellings. I drove by, but opted not to stay at, The Palace Hotel in Silver City, though it looked substantially more peaceful than the Hotel Congress had been in Tucson. I placed a few calls and found a cabin seven miles out of town, in the direction I was hoping to take the next day. It sounded secluded and more mountain-like, surrounded by pine trees, with a fireplace and balcony. I decided it would probably be condusive to writing and a nice break from roadside noise. The innkeeper/cabinkeeper also said there was a good place for dinner nearby, so I put away my maps and guidebooks and headed in that direction.
Dinner turned out to be great. The Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House was just down the road and offered candlelit tables, wood beam ceilings and live music in the lounge. The atmosphere was both festive and relaxing. A wagon wheel, lit with tiny white lights, rested above a glowing fireplace in the room where I was seated. The menu was extensive, with six different cuts of steak, a wide assortment of appetizers, burgers and sandwiches and a long list of entrees that included everything from Blackened Chicken and Quail to Alaskan King Crab Legs and Australian Lobster Tail. Between my failing memory and limited notes from that night, I believe I had a nice salad with mixed greens, tomato, celery,cucumber, jicama and sunflower seeds, followed by a dish called "New Mexico Chicken" - or something like that, which had cheese and chile verde sauce on it. Everything was great, an ideal ending to the day of travel. Back at the cabin, I built a fire and settled in for the evening, slept well, enjoyed morning coffee on the loft balcony, then got ready for more adventure.
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Pinos Altos ("tall pines") got its start as a mining town in 1859, when gold was discovered in Bear Creek. And so, 146 years later, I found myself at the Bear Creek Motel & Cabins, choosing between several cabins and then settling into one small unit toward the front of the property. Living room downstairs and loft bedroom upstairs. Bonuses included a front patio with picnic table and BBQ, kiva-style fireplace in the main room, phone, small refrigerator and coffee pot and a sitting area and outdoor balcony upstairs. All this for an extremely reasonable rate.