I had intended to drive through Illinois and into Indiana the following day, but stalled when I reached Ste. Genevieve, Missouri.

Research shows that this quaint town, located on the west bank of the MIssissippi River, was founded by French colonists sometime between 1722 and 1749, though on record the town marks 1735 as its birthdate. It has a picturesque downtown Historic District, which is designated a National Landmark. Especially interesting are several vertical log houses, which are carefully preserved to show their French Colonial style. Three such structures are open to the public.

Ste. Genevieve was originally built about two miles south of its present location, on low land adjoining the river. However, it moved north to higher ground after a terrible flood in 1785. With the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, it saw many new inhabitants arrive, bringing along families, businesses and varying building styles. However, it managed to maintain its original character and is now considered by many to be the best example of French Colonial architecture in the nation.

I hadn't been driving long, but the town seemed worth exploring. It wasn't difficult to find a parking place, so I grabbed my camera and journal and started to wander. I decided to start by getting something to eat at the Old Brick House, the oldest brick building west of the Mississippi, built in 1790. One of several historic eateries in town, there was a buffet set up of what I call "good ol' home-cooked food." Nothing fancy, but generous trays of fried chicken, pot roast, mashed potatoes, corn and assorted other calorie-packed items. It took care of the hunger pangs and weighed me down enough that I started toying with the idea of hanging out in Missouri one more night.

And so I arrived at The Inn St. Gemme Beauvais, a bed and breakfast housed in an impressive brick building dating back to 1848. I sauntered in, looking for a brochure, and was greeted by owners Jan (pronounced "Yon") and Cathy Brans. There were plenty of open rooms, as it was not a weekend night, so I took one on the first floor, close enough to the office to pick up the wireless connection. (OK, I admit it, I love these old buildings, but I love modern amenities, too.)

Had I arrived on a Fri. or Sat., I would have been able to enjoy a meal in the inn's dining room, where classic french cuisine is offered each weekend. Instead, I rested up a bit, headed down to the Great River Road Interpretive Center for some information and later picked up a salad at The Anvil Saloon, which has been in operation since 1855, not counting five previous years when it housed a hardware store.

Rates at this inn are reasonable, starting at $89., with higher priced suites also available. They offer a full gourmet breakfast, with a choice of entrees, served at a candlelit table in the same dining room that serves as a restaurant on weekend nights. (I went for the Quiche Lorraine and a dish of fresh strawberries and blueberries, though it would have been easy to succumb to other choices, such as stuffed french toast or beignets.) Fresh flowers decorate both the dining tables and rooms. Mid-afternoon tea and late afternoon wine and hors d'oeuvres are also included, though I managed to miss both of those.

I also missed meeting the regular innkeeper, Janet Joggerst, who has been with the Inn St. Gemme Beauvais for over 25 years and is said to be gracious, knowledgeable and a fabulous cook.

All in all, Ste. Genevieve was an intriguing town and the inn provided a good, modestly priced place to add to my recommended lodging list. I'd advise visitors to take the time to tour the local historic houses and to venture out into the wine country. A Fri. or Sat. night stay would be a plus, too, in order to enjoy a nice, French meal.