Weblog 2003
Taos, New Mexico
I arrived in Taos, NM, late at night, in the midst of a rather furious thunderstorm, though it passed quickly. I knew there were many vacancies in town, having checked availability in advance. But the weather slowed my travel more than I expected and by the time the lightening and rain subsided, I had only a few choices for lodging.
In any case, my hideaway for the night was extremely inviting, in spite of it being out-of-season for use of the kiva fireplace. Though traditional in appealing adobe structure, the viga ceiling in this room was high, which gave it a wonderfully spacious feeling. Artistically decorated with hand-painted mirror frames and tin holders for bath products, this was classic Taos style - rustic, yet filled with modern amenities such as a television and phone. It was a welcome relief after the rainy roads. The convenient location, just 1/4 block north of Taos Plaza, was another plus.
Originally named The Hotel Martin, the Taos Inn opened in 1936, named for Dr. Thomas Paul (Doc) Martin, the county's first doctor. Well-loved by the community, Dr. Martin devoted his life to setting broken bones and delivering local babies, both in the building now known as Doc Martin's Restaurant and by saddling up horses and heading out on house calls. He was known for accepting unusual form of payment for his services, such as goats, chickens or even a sack of potatoes.
His wife, Helen, was an admired batik artist and, with her husband, did much to contribute to the growing arts in the Taos community. This tradition is continued in the regular "Meet the Artists" lecture series hosted by the inn.
The Taos Inn is actually a group of adobe houses, clustered around a courtyard, in the middle of town, one of those being Dr. Martin's original house and office. The Taos Society of Artists was founded in their living room, by Ernest Blumenschein. Greta Garbo, Anthony Quinn, Thornton Wilder and D.H. Lawrence were all guests, as well as many others, including Robert Mitchum, Peter Fonda and Robert Redford.
I slept well and woke up to calmer weather and peaceful skies. Breakfast is not included with lodging at this inn, but is available in the restaurant. I had fruit and muffins with me, so I combined these with hot coffee from the lobby and enjoyed a simple morning meal the patio outside my room.
I packed up and thanked Manka for her excellent hospitality. After a little writing time in the lobby balcony and a delicious, spicy chile relleno in Doc Martin's restaurant, I headed out to explore. (Inside hint: There are live phone jacks inside the balcony wall, for online access. This is a nice bonus for business travelers.)
I wasn't leaving Taos yet, as I'd planned to spend a couple days in the area, before making the final stretch to California. I looked at my options for the new day and night. I didn't know it yet, but I was about to discover one of my favorite B&Bs of all time, as well as a little history and some of Taos' eateries and shops.
Taos Inn
It was thanks to the kindness of Manka Lewis-Smith, at the historic Taos Inn, that I ended up safely tucked away for the night in Room 204. This charming room, actually a suite, was larger than I needed. But Manka, whose patience is to be commended, placed me there after we ruled out a couple other rooms - one for noisy proximity to the lobby and another because guests had previously checked in, then changed rooms.
After getting settled in, I stopped back into the lobby to enjoy a bit of music in The Adobe Bar. Originally an outdoor plaza, this now-enclosed, festive gathering place is worth seeing just to enjoy the tall vigas and stained-glass cupola, built around an original well. But it's also known for live jazz and flamenco entertainment, offering tables and chairs clustered around a kiva fireplace, or up narrow stairs, from a balcony overlooking the lobby. Outdoor tables in front of the inn offer other seating options.
125 Paseo del Norte
Taos, NM 87571
(505) 758-2233






